EnglishIt can be quite frustrating waking up in the morning to make your morning coffee only to find out that your electric kettle is not working. This problem might be caused by several issues.
Among the most common problems that may cause your electric kettle not to work is the fact that it is overfilled. It could also be due to a bad switch.
What does Kettle Thermostat Couplers include：
What does Kettle Thermostat Couplers include：
1. Thermostat Element
Kettles are one of the most commonly used and simplest household electric appliances. When you open the lid of your kettle there is a thick coiled metal at the base that is called the heating element.
When you plug your kettle into the electrical outlet and switch it on, a large electric current passes through the coil of the heating element. The elements resistance (the material’s ability to stop electric current flowing through it) turns the electricity into heat that warms the water inside your kettle.
The element is situated at the bottom of your kettle for a few reasons, aesthetics, stability and safety being important ones. However the most important reason is that heat rises so you need the element at the bottom to ensure that your entire kettle of water will boil. Also the element is less likely to be damaged if it is not under any direct contact with boiling water.
2. Water Level Sensor
Many kettles have a glass window that lets you see the water level. You may have overfilled it and the sensor might be getting a false signal. You can try reducing the water to resolve the issue.
A kettle uses a metal coil to turn electrical energy into heat that warms the water inside it. Most use a paddle or rocker switch to turn on the heating element and an LED to show that it's working.
Kettles that automatically shut off when the water boils have a built-in sensor. There's a tube leading down from the lid that vents steam and leads to a bimetallic thermostat. When the water reaches boiling, the steam whooshes down the tube and heats up the thermostat to flip open. This disconnects the power supply to the heating element and switches off the kettle.
The manufacturer might require you to read the manual before tampering with it. Some manufacturers have very strict requirements for their appliances and tampering might void the warranty coverage.
3. Thermostat Switch
The kettle’s thermostat switch is a key part of the mechanism that prompts it to switch off once the water has reached its desired temperature. The switch works by passing electrical energy through a coil, which turns the electricity into heat and warms the water inside the kettle.
The bimetallic steam switch is connected to a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water in the kettle. When the water reaches its boiling point, the steam triggers the thermostat switch to shut off the power supply. The thermostatic switch is designed to be durable and long-lasting, making it a great replacement for your electric kettle. It also has a high degree of corrosion resistance and good thermal insulation. It is suitable for any brand of kettle.
4. Water Filter
Two boil-dry protection switches protect the kettle in case you accidentally switch it on with little or no water. They work on the same principle as the thermostat, but with bimetallic plates that turn off the heating element at the point where the kettle connects to the base.
The lid reduces boiling time, prevents steam escaping and stops water splashing around the kitchen (and the rustling noise you may hear from it). It also keeps heat inside the kettle to save energy.
The ON/OFF switch on a kettle is a sprung lever that closes an electrical circuit to connect power to the heating element, and then turns off again when the water boils or the desired temperature is reached. It also switches off if the kettle is lifted during this period, or if the base disconnects from the kettle and loses contact with the powerbase. This feature is essential for safe use of an electric jug.
